I've been testing my tolerance to lowering the thermostat. So  far I'd say the low 60's is about the limit. I'm not wearing gloves or a hat, but I have an extra shirt on. By putting on gloves, coat, and a hat I could probably take off five more degrees. Is it sane to set the thermostat at 63, 58? The energy used is directly proportional to the temperature differential. So if it is 40 or below the heater is going to run, but not as much. If you get a real cold blast the outside temp will drop much more than you can tolerate lowering the inside temp. Pipe freezing is also a concern if your house has poorly designed plumbing. I wonder if there are some simple ways to know how well the house is insulated. The outside temperatures keep moving so it's hard to do rigid testing.

I remember hearing about some people who lived for several months in pre-medieval conditions, (I don't recall the exact historical period). The hardest part of acclimating back to modern life was that they were always too warm when they went into buildings heated to modern temperatures.

Have not run the heater yet this year...it's 53 degrees inside the house.  We had several freezing nights this week, but the extra blankets on the bed took care of that. Sitting in a down sleeping bag on the couch works well too.  Just to see how long I can hold out...
You're single aren't you.  I've tried to hold out.  Last year I got made it to the end of december with out it. This year, I get an ear full when I set it below 68.
Oh man, I hear you! Thank goodness I heat with wood, or my wife would have me in the poor house with all the oil she'd burn. I cut all my own wood (about 6 cords), so a heating season ends up costing me about $200 - all things considered. If it gets below 70 in the house she complains. And that's better than she used to be - 74 was the old comfort level for her.
Blame modern sedentaryness at least in part.....

In the process of moving to my new place I had to do a lot of heavy work over 3 days, and I could not believe how warm the new place seemed. It's warmer than the old place true, but I find my tolerence to cold goes up a lot if I'm doing a lot of physical activity. I was walking around downtown in a t-shirt while everyone else was bundled up!

The last day or so have been very active for me, and again my cold tolerence spiked again.

If you could get your wife doing exercise, her cold tolerence would probably go up quite a bit - and the prospect of doing some push-ups before going to bed in the Finnish tradition to sleep warm, would not be so frightening.

I see some gals who are just HUGE (what can I say, I live in the US) and they're very cold-sensitive, it's amazing with all that insulation, but it's the result of an extremely sedentary lifestyle.

Travelingwxman,

Have you considered withholding sex as a bargaining tool?

I find that once it gets too uncomfortable I shut down. I have to go crawl in bed to warm up. I have stuff to do. I can't afford to just hibernate for 3 months.
I know that "frozen in place" feeling - some activity or a hot cuppa tea solves that, one of those little things that's made to boil up water quickly can, with tea leaves of course*, can provide that hot cuppa quickly and frugally.

*and it's amazing what you can call "tea" in various cultures so it does not necessarily need to depend on globalism.

Is this code for something? This "hot cuppa." In my country we would say you are a little funny.
do you have a few yrs heating bills to look at   some utilities print the average temp on their bill  but this doesnt take into account "wind chill" (not to be confused with the wind chill used by your local weatherman - that is for humans)   noaa (national oceanic and atmospheric administration) publishes heating degree days for specific areas (based on the outside temp and some presumed inside temp)    you can probably get an energy audit done by your utility company  for a charge  but they will sometimes rebate this cost if you buy insulation  
 or on the low tech side you can get ahold of one of those infared temperature sensors (sold at autoparts stores)  go outside and measure the temperature of your walls windows roof  and get an idea or where you are loosing the heat  (heat flows downhill temperaturewise ) so higher external temps will indicate heat loss   good luck
I am a huge believer in zone heating.

We have areas of the house at 58 and other areas at 68.

The area that is 68 is the TV, dining and kitchen area.  You would not believe how it "brings the family together".

By the way, I work in my office at 58. You get used to it.

Disclaimer - 58 is not recommended for the aged or the sick.

Rick

I keep my thermostat at 55, but occasionally I turn on a pellet stove in my office for about an hour just to get the room warmed up a bit. That way I am not heating up the whole house, just the small portion that I am using.  If it is sunny during the day, I am quite comfortable with the sun coming through the windows. If not, it's a bit chilly but then I just wear more clothes, including a fleece pullover.
We have no furnace or thermostat.  We heat with a small wood stove in the living room and an electric wall heater in the bathroom (opposite end of the house.)  On cold nights, we use the electric heater in the bedroom but I just got a new down comforter and hope to use less electric heat.  On days that go near or below zero, we fire up the wood furnace in the basement to heat the whole house.  It uses up the chunks of wood that won't split small enough for the woodstove.
Lots of passive solar in the living room on sunny afternoons.  Large, well insulated south-facing windows.  Can't take credit--previous owners had them installed, along with the excellent (jotul) woodstove.  On sunny afternoons we don't use the stove at all. :)
From a vignette of life in 17th century Amsterdam:

The whole house, in fact, was probably cold.  It was also probably damp owing to its being continually cleaned with bucketfuls of water.  The chimney was a prominent feature, large and ornate with a carved canopy and shelves containing rows of porcelain and other ornaments; but its peat fire gave out little heat, and in cold winters the ladies of the house sat sewing or reading encased in layers of bulky undergarments, with foot-warmers under their feet and thick shawls round their shoulders.  Husbands were as well muffled as their wives.  'The true Dutchman cuts the strangest figure in the world,' wrote Oliver Goldsmith.  'He wears no coat but seven waistcoasts and nine pairs of trousers, so that his huanches start somewhere under his armpits.  The Dutchwoman wears as many petticoast as her husband does trousers.'  They both wore the plainest clothes, another Englishman complained, with 'neither shape nor pleats; and their long pockets [were] set as high as their ribs.'

I guess it's a strategy for dealing with Peak NG.  Seriously, though I heard many people in my town were setting their thermostats way down last winter.

Did you see this one?

http://www.edie.net/news/news_story.asp?id=12251&channel=0

Construction methods of the 16th century resulted in considerably less drafty houses than those of the 1960s or even the 1990s, the British Gas-commissioned survey found.

Houses built in the 1500s were found to leak an average of 10.11 cubic metres of air per hour for every square metre of wall, compared with 15.1 for a 1960s property and between 12 and 23.6 for a 1990s building.

This may have a lot to do with the increasing availability of cheap and (untaxed!) glass.

In the 16th C and 17th C windows were few and far between. Glass prices or the imposition Window taxes meant that many existing windows were walled up.

The 1960's building fashions went for large 'picture windows' - At least here in the UK. These were rarely double or triple glazed. Some of these windows were seriously large and occupied a major percentage of a house frontage.

As well as heat loss, owners used to get frantic about kids playing knock about soccer in the street...

A Middle Ages construction method used a mixture of mud and manure to fill in gaps and cracks in the walls.  Cheap and effective at stopping drafts.  Keeping livestock under the living quarters in winter was also quite common.  I wonder if people became acclimated to the odor.
An energy auditor can do testing that will tell you how much insulation you have.

I like the thermostat at different temperatures depending on what I a doing. If I am sleeping, 50 is fine. In the morning, 67 is much more comfortable. Whenever I am around the house, a sweater or pullover is standard - so is about 65.

My biggest problem is visiting other buildings. I can dress for the weather outside and to be comfortable around the house, but then when I visit my friends in their apartments, the thermostat is set to ~77 by the management. This is uncomfortably warm and explains why my friends have so many pairs of shorts.

I think a law that mandates a standard temperature for public buildings should be legislated. If evey one of those building went from 77 to 65, think of how much NG would be saved. People would also get used to that temperature so that other buildings would be more likely to select a lower temperature as well.

Alternatively, a powerplant like the one from 'the matrix' to harness all of the hot air coming out of washington might be a good investment.

It's my family's tolerance that I have been testing!  

We have a programmable thermostat, which is essential for us.  We live in a dark and very cold climate in a house built in 1946.  It is not well insulated, although we are gradually correcting that.  We set the thermostat to 55 degrees at night.  In the morning the temp. goes up to 65 degrees for one hour then back to 62 degrees (F) for the rest of the day.  Suffice it to say that the woodstove is popular and the kids actually like getting long underwear for Christmas/Solstice.

When we kept the house at A-STP (American standard temperature and pressure...68 degrees day/65 degrees night) our fuel oil consumption for the year was averaging 355 to 400 gallons.  Now we use between 180 and 220 gallons per year.  However, some of the heating load is taken up by our high-efficiency woodstove, so we really have not halved or fuel use; more a case of substitution.  On a cash cost basis, the 400 gallons were priced at $2.25/Gal while last winter's heating oil ran about $3.50 delivered.  Our strategy is to heat room where people are, not the house.

I don't think we will willingly set the thermostat much lower...the kids and wife are about at their limit.  My experience is that, as long as you are busy, temperatures between 55-62 degrees are comfortable.  If you sit down to read or play on the computer it becomes uncomfortable unless you add clothes...mostly the family wears hats, berets and beanies inside.  Wool throws and blankets become fought over commodities.  Long underwear is just what you wear in the winter (the merino wool stuff from smartwool is worth the price).

As to plumbing, when we get those -10 to -40 degree nights, we do increase our heating but rather than heat the unheated spaces through which the plumbing is routed, we open sink cabinets and leave the water running; my more wealthy neighbors us thermostatically controlled heat tape.

Given the complexities of insulation, my choice for determining how well your house is insulated would be exploratory and mathematical.  First, determine what you actually have, (I removed the siding and poked around) and then calculate the whole wall insulation.  Remember that the insulation between the joists/studs is only part of the picture...the thermal "breaks caused by the studs significantly reduce the whole wall insulative values.  Then you need to get a handle on leakage. Leakage will be pretty important especially on older houses like mine...when the wind blows the house loses heat very quickly.  After all that math you will be able to calculate how many btu/hour your house loses for a given outside temperature and wind speed.  It is a good exercise, but time consuming...I usually do only a wall at a time...windows and wind suck heat bad.  I think ASHRAE has some good numbers for this.

My wife and I convert one room of our Sacramento Victorian into our "cabin" for the winter season.  We move our bed into one room, which has a gas heater, and hang curtains over the door to hold in the heat.  Our thermostat is set at 61, and the rest of the house (including the bathroom) remains unheated.  We do bundle up, including knit caps, and this arrangement is quite comfortable.

Apart from visual inspection of accessible areas and windows, there isn't a simple way to know how well your house is insulated.  I've looked into purchasing a camera sensitive enough to IR to show heat loss from walls, but they are quite expensive.  An example is the IR 235 DX Robust handheld FLIR Thermal Infrared Imaging Camera which shatters the 8k price barrier!.

Someone has got to be renting those things.
Back In The Day, you could use an IR filter with a film camera. Long expose times no doubt. Read an old book on photography, 1970s or earlier, and you'll hear about it - guess a lot of films will react to IR and with an IR filter and longer exposure, you can take some lovely IR pics.

You just want to see the heat leaks in your house, not catch a running perp.

IR film is passé; you can do the same by pulling the IR filter in a digital camera today.

But there's a huge difference between near-IR (8000-12000 Å) and thermal IR.  Soda-glass lenses are opaque to thermal IR, so you couldn't have used a conventional camera to take a picture of a thermal source even if you could have kept the film's thermal radiation from exposing itself.

Camera filters of any kind are passe...just snap your digital photos and do whatever you want to them in Adobe Photoshop Elements (filters, color changes, contrast changes, artistic enhancements....)
The thermal sensitivity of such approaches isn't enough to detect heat leaks.  Even current generation digitial cameras with "IR" capability lack sufficient sensitivity.
Count me as another who ran a GW/PO experiment.

I turned off my condo's heater, but in coastal California the lowest temp I've seen so far is 57F in the morning.  I seem to recall 54F as the low last February.  The real drag is that my condo is down a hill and behind some trees.  It might be 11:00 AM before I get any direct sun.  That means bundling up, or heading up the hill to the sun.

This all started as an experiment, to see if heat is really needed here, and I'd say it isn't (for a healthy adult).  And I think I actually stay healthier ... but that could be my imagination.

My best practical advice?  If you feel cold, eat something.  That seems to flip a switch, fire up the body's thermostat.

(59F feels warm to me right now)

Secret heat source

To cut firewood for personal use on National Forest lands you must have a Personal Use Firewood Permit. Permits are available for purchase each year starting in the Spring and are valid for gathering firewood from the date of issue until December 31st of the same year. The minimum volume of wood per permit is four cords, with the cost per cord at $5.00.

Eating hot soup is really good if you are cold.  And don't forget hot chocolate.  Both taste much better when cold.

Rick

Anybody need a Christmas present idea?  I get cold easily and like to wear a light-weight goose down-filled vest all winter.  Lands End sells them for $25.  Works great for me.
Of course all these strategies are fun to try when your healthy.  Try going without heat when you are sick or have a chronic health condition.  People forget how much of a life support system central heating and plumbing is.  I have a coworker who tried living the 18th centrey lifestyle (outhouse and woodstove).  He tells an amazing story of how the family got influenza, and he had to crawl out to the wood shed on hands and knees to slowly push each piece of wood back to the house.

(Currently suffering from sinus infection and asthma.  Thank god for electric blankets.)

The general health of the body can be greatly improved with vitamins. The average diet is rich in energy but short of the catalysts needed to utilize it. My strength greatly improved after I started taking C, E, B-complex, and selenium.

I totally agree that you have to be healthy to endure cooler temperatures.

just pop a galic bulb like popeye ( the old popeye i mean not that spinich eating whimp of late) and you are ready to defend olive oil against the advances of bluto ?
Bitteroldcoot I know the feeling, I shared a place and got sick, top temps for a couple of weeks were in the 20s, I got sick and stayed sick. Housemate actually spent some real money trying to keep the place warm too. I decided I'd have been ahead of the curve to simply check into the motel across the street from my shop and get over my bug there, decent heat and clean sheets each day, and the better productivity would have paid for it.

Being cold when you're sick SUCKS.

Look into goose down though, I swear when TSHTF I'll collect pigeon down and cat hair etc if that's what it takes, down is Nature's electric blanket.

I heat my small log house with wood, primarily, but with oil furnace backup. I keep the thermostat at 60 by day, 55 at night. Part of the scenario is that I work at home mostly, and am going in and out all the time to tend my animals and such. It's terrible to come in from a nice brisk wintery day into a too-warm house - it's a real yank, and I doubt it's healthy.

Let me second what Joseph referred to - I get so acclimated that I have to change my clothes if I'm going to a more "conventionally" heated place in the winter, or I'll just roast. It's amazing what you can get used to, with the proper clothing. If you feel chilled, just sit by the fire for a minute.

Back in the days of the first oil embargo, my mother turned the thermostat waaay down, and whenever we kids complained, she would simply say "put on another sweater". To this day, if anyone in my family mentions that they're feeling cold, we all recite "put on another sweater", and it provokes gales of laughter.

- sgage

Any party on this thread who is really comfortable at much less than 60 degrees needs to consider the possibility that they are somewhat hyperthyroid.
Not diagnosing anyone. My thyroid tests normal and I can remember when younger and spending much time out of doors I could acclimatize to 50's indoors.
Don't bust up a family over this ooe. Insulate. If family members aren't adjusting it may be because they just physically can't. That you are able to do something is not an indication someone else could if they were willing.
Agreed all around.  This is a mostly a function of age, I think.  Kids and people older than 30 can't handle colder temperatures as well as teens and twenties. I expect the excess body heat slowly drops after around 30.  Besides that, many women (and some men) have a condition called Raynaud's phenomenon, where colder temperatures (even reaching into the fridge) can cause your body to cut off circulation to the fingers.  My poor wife found out about this at 32.  She can't take the cold nearly as well as she used to.

We heat with a wood stove and a high efficiency gas furnace, gas stove, and gas dryer.  We keep a kerosene heater around for backup and use it sometimes.  We go through about 350 total CCF of gas, one cord of wood, and five gallons of kerosene in winter in Michigan.  We drop the temperature to 55F at night, use the furnace to raise it to 60F in the morning, and keep it between 65 and 68F during the day using the woodstove.  We direct the gas clothes dryer exhaust into the room during the winter and bake a lot.  We've also doubled our attic insulation and plastic sealed many of the windows in the winter.  Finally, though they probably didn't realize it when they built the place, our 1k sq.ft. house has many passive solar features that help heat the place when the sun's out.

This year the wood's been pretty much free, since we got a bunch of ash wood that the city was removing.  The emerald ash borer is probably going to eliminate ash trees in eastern forests.  Too bad, it makes great firewood.

JC dude, another one?  Hemlock woolly adelgid, spruce bark beetle, Dogwood anthracnose, Sycamore anthracnose, Locust borer...are we going to have any trees left?
Chestnut blight, butternut canker.

Pollen samples show that Eastern Hemlock was almost a monoculture about 10-12,000 years ago in parts of the Eastern US.  And then it almost disappeared.  What wiped it out does not appear to be affecting the remnant population.

Forests do not appear to have stable species mixes, although human influence seems to speed that dynamic up dramatically.

Alan

   

Yes, Q = UA delta T. You can lower the total heat transfer, Q by lowering U  - heat transfer coefficient (add insulation) lowering A - area (heating just one room or a smaller house) or as you are doing lowering the indoor temperature. I find a down vest works wonders in a cool room. It is light, doesn't constrain movement and keeps me surprisingly warm. Your utlility may offer infrared testing to determine heat loss areas of your house and adequacy of insulation.
My Girlfriend lives in an apartment building, she does not turn her heat on at all, it was Snowing there two weeks ago, and pretty cold, she says that she hardly ever has to turn it on. heat rises andshe uses that for warmth.  

I guess I will know in 2 months or so.  going to miss hand picking pecans in the fall though.  my dad will send up about 5 pounds shelled as a nice gift box every month,,, I have his secrets,, he owes me ... LOL.

Charles.

I've got neighbors on top, both sides, and behind me, I don't anticipate using heat at all this winter. And if I need it, I have a modern small space heater, to zone heat.
I did that when I was a poor college student.  It was rough the first year, when we were on the first floor.  (The upstairs neighbors weren't happy, either; they complained their floor was always cold.)

The next year, we switched to the third floor, because heat rises.  I'm sure we did evil things to the power bill of the guys on the 2nd floor, but they never knew it.  :)

And it did make a huge difference to our power bill.  With the heat on, the power bill was almost four times higher.  We went the whole winter without turning on the heat.  We had to study wearing gloves and hats, but after awhile, it became a kind of challenge.  No one wanted to be the first to give in and ask to turn the heat on.