160 comments on POLL: Theoildrum.com readers and food growing...
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160 comments on POLL: Theoildrum.com readers and food growing...
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GAIA Host Collective
By the way, a totally righteous looking squash.
That was my biggest upside surprise this year - i grew 9 varieties of squash. Frankly they all taste the same when mixed with butter and brown sugar but I didnt know that - Ive eaten 1/3, have 1/3 cooked and frozen and 1/3 still in 'squash' form, in the garage, where it is slightly above freezing...they should last at least another month or two
Here's a great recipe
http://www.elise.com/recipes/archives/001439spicy_pumpkin_soup.php
good with any winter squash
"i grew 9 varieties of squash."
a local asian restaurant grows food practically in their parking lot. they grow all around the property in a very urban environment. he grows chinese(or asian or hong kong I forget) squash that doesn't touch the ground and is about 2 feet long.
Try making soup.
Your storage is probably *way* too cold. "Putting Food By" says to root cellar winter squash the same as pumpkins, which it says should be in dry air at about 55 F. "Root Cellaring" says the same, but acorn squash like it a bit cooler, 45 to 50 F. Both say that at temperatures below that you'll get chill damage; probably first soft spots then quickly rotting. The damage may be done by this point, but do yourself a favor and get them out of that cold fast!
Well please tell me how to get rid of squash vine borer!!
Our squash yields have collapsed the past few years because of the #@$#@$ things. I've tried to excise them from the vines with a knife - the only solution was growing squash in manure so that it can outgrow the buggers (for a while anyways).
I just microwave the squash and eat it raw. Acorn is nice but buttercup is best - firm, dry and sweet. Butternut with sautee'd onions and garlic makes a great soup.
Squash cookies - 1c buttercup, 2c whole wheat flour, 1/4c sugar <1/4c choc chips, 1tsp baking soda, 1tsp baking powder - 350F for 15 min.
Our best squash always seem to be the volunteers that get into the soil via the compost - not the ones we start indoors and keep safe until the frost is over!
We've found that injecting Bt into the hollow of the stems works well. They sell "garden syringes" for this. I buy a pint of Bt Kurstaki concentrate every few years (I have a bottle of Bonide "Thuricide" Bt in front of me right now.) When I see frass, I inject diluted (per instructions) Bt into the stems every few feet. This is completely organic BTW, and you don't have to bury the stems afterward.
You can also spray the Bt on the stems early in the season and hope that the larvae eat some as they're burrowing in. This takes more time, since you have to do it after every rain and you may still have to inject. However, it takes only a few minutes per week and may solve the problem.
Another good method is to just wait until after the borers have flown in your area. (That's part of the reason your volunteers do so well.) You might even plant a single squash to throw away and after you see the frass, plant the rest of your squash. The adult borers only fly for a few weeks and then they're done for the year. That means that covering up the plants during that time fram so that the borer can't get to them would also work. The borers don't look at the calendar to decide when to fly, unfortunately, so you have to have a bait plant or leave it on for a month or so to be sure.
Oh, and make *sure* you get rid of any borers at the end of the season. Vines must be either composted well or burned. We chop ours up into 2" chunks to compost or just put them in our city composting bins. It doesn't hurt to stir up your beds that had squashes to look for pupal cases, either.
Thanks for the BT advice. I'm also going to try succession plantings next year.
We got the borers something awful in central Texas. They don't seem to have such a short season here. I tried the Bt method but apparently just don't have a feel for how to do it. Or the bottle of Bt I bought was no good. Sometimes we can get a few fruit off of them before the borers kill 'em off though.

i just did a little reading on the local "coyote gourd" or more commonly known "buffalo gourd" and the seeds are edible, and the stuff's a weed here. I think I'm going to snag a few next time I drive by a local patch of them and plant the seeds around our lower lying land here ..... the gourd is basically poisonous, but makes a decent soap if you have no other, the seeds can be roasted and eaten, and the dried gourds can be used to make things. And, you can do stuff with the root - get starch or brew white lightning lol.
The seeds, the way the stuff grows so well with no attention, and the way the dried gourds can be made into things, are enough reasons for me.
You mean this cucurb. It's one of my favorite native plants here in central Texas.
And probably also the natural reservoir of those ^%$&$%%! squash borer moths.
Thanks for the link to the borer, what an interesting looking bug! If I didn't know it's a moth, it'd fool me into not messing with it, since it does look like a wasp. But looking closer, it doesn't have a thin waist, and it has "tail feathers" instead of a sting.
I'm going to be on the lookout for those and "frass" on coyote gourd plants to see if they're around here.
I've never seen anyone consciously grow the coyote gourd around here, it just grows here and there as a weed. And it does well when everything else is struggling.
I haven't actually noticed any damage on the buffalo gourd plants I've examined. It just seems that the borers find our cultivated squash so quickly there must be some natural source of them. I think the wild gourds are quite resistant to that sort of attack -- non-hollow stems for example. And being poisonous probably helps.
The tuberous root of the buffalo gourd allows it to survive a hot dry spell long after most of the other non-succulent plants have died or gone into diapause.
Growing those might not be a bad non-agricultural post peak business, given lack of other petroleum based items and our cultural addiction to more
praetzel,
Be thankful if you don't have carrot root maggot, their life cycles seem to be continuous starting in mid spring to mid fall. Looking at the life cycle of that moth of yours, a covering of remay cloth, for the month I read they were active, might help.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2153.html
We like to prep our Butternut or Acorn by slicing them into 1/4"-3/8" slices, then coating them with oil or butter. Try not to slice your fingers off though! Then just cook them on cookie sheets. Goes with almost any meal and makes for great snack food the next day. Oh yeah, almost forgot my favoite part, leave the skin on and coat it too as it can be very tasty and not tough at all (depending on the squash}.
I really liked these 2 food related posts. Led to something very positive in the comments. Well done!
I grow a few sets of zucchini but I love sweet potatoes more.
I usually bake them but they are good fried.
A new recipe suggest cutting them into spears and baking them then dipping in a apricot sauce. Haven't tried it yet.
I have my sweet potatoes sitting in my living space. They need the warmth to further cure and this way I can keep my eyes on them. Ditto my dug potatoes. With these two items and shelled corn plus some combined wheat(soft red winter) I think I could survive til next season if everything shut down today.
I am planning on building an outdoor Pompeii type Italian outdoor oven. This will wean me from gas/lp. I will put it in my enclosed back porch. I also must brought 3 wood burning stoves for the same reason.
I was going to vote 75-100 but as yet I still buy some items yet I am about 80% for full time shutdown. I have a few more projects first..such as a full blacksmithing setup with charcoal and gathering piles of scrap metal of which I already have a large amount.
I have been a blacksmith for the last 30 yrs but my anvils and forges left with the last auction. I am starting over but it a far different direction this time. This will be my main means of surviving in the hoped for barter system.
I was going to put a shower in my new living quarters but decided that its not necessary and a waste. My grandparents never had them. In the summer when one perspires you can use a simple garden hose and its already heated by laying in the sun.
I am gathering up a large used satellite dish to make a solar collector and then check out the stirling engine so the heat can run it and power blacksmithing tools such as grinder,lathe,drill etc.
airdale
airdale
Hi Airdale,
Grew a few sweet potatoes up here on the B.C. coast and they came out much nicer tasting than the original seed potato I bought in the vegetable aisle of our supermarket. Cheated though, grew them in the greenhouse.
I think I could survive where I am too if everything shut down but I might have to eat my next door neighbour to do it. Just kidding, he is much to old and stringy but I might have to use the garden he hasn't bothered with.
One thing I am preparing to do this year is to buy large quantities of seed and freeze them (using a desiccant to dry them first). One can keep seed for long periods at a reasonable price if buying from a seed producer that caters to commercial growers. I am going to try Johnny's Seeds this year as I have heard good word about them and one can buy in quantity.
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/default.aspx?source=google_johnny_s_seed_e&gc...
Seeds in a can
Survival Garden Seeds #10 Can
Seed Varieties Included in Each Can:
1 Sweet Garden Corn -- Golden Bantam 5 oz.
1 Pole Beans -- Blue Lake 5 oz.
1 Sweet Garden Peas -- Little Marvel 10 oz.
1 Carrot -- Scarlet Nantes 6 g.
1 Onions -- Utah Sweet Spanish 10 g.
1 Cabbage -- Golden Acre 10 g.
1 Swiss Chard -- Lucullus 8 g.
1 Beet -- Detroit Dark Red 8 g.
1 Winter Squash -- Waltham Butternut 6 g.
1 Tomato -- Ace 55 VF 3 g.
1 Zucchini Squash -- Black Beauty 6 g.
1 Lettuce -- Barcarolle Romaine 4 g.
1 Pepper -- Yolo Wonder 5 g.
1 Radish -- Champion 10 g.
1 Spinach -- Bloomsdale Long Standing 10 g.
1 Cucumber -- Marketmore 76- 8 g.
Totals: 659 grams of Open Pollinated Non-Hybrid Vegetable Seed
*Non-Hybrid seeds can be collected from the crop after harvest and used the next season for replanting. Many store bought seed are "hydrid" varieties and will not produce their own seeds.
http://www.nitro-pak.com/product_info.php?products_id=1340&osCsid=8db954......
and sprouting seeds don't need to start in jars; they can be planted...
http://www.captaindaves.com/shop/sprouts.html#109
Errr, Ummm, Hmmm...Nate, looks for all the world like coprolite. Heres hoping that it tastes better than it looks.