191 comments on DrumBeat: February 10, 2008
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191 comments on DrumBeat: February 10, 2008
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GAIA Host Collective
Passivhaus technology works fine in semi-detached or detached houses, and uses little or no additional heating other than the warmth of appliances and people.
How much warmer do you need to be, and why would you need to be more efficient?
Where can we get some energy-use numbers on multi-family versus detached single family in the PassiveHaus design?
The wikipedia piece shows pics of large buildings.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passivhaus
If we get to a point post-peak when energy is cheap again on account of huge success with renewables, I agree. But before then, I suspect there won't be such a thing as too efficient.
I don't read German and most of the detailed specifications will be in that language, of course.
You are of course correct that it is easier to conserve heat in an apartment block, but other criteria such as soundproofing may be harder, so the overall task may not be that much tougher.
In any case, they regulate by energy use per square meter, so to get the rating of Passivhaus then you have to meet that one way or another.
Here are a couple of links that may interest you:
http://www.trada.co.uk/news/view/5D2EEC93-C592-46D7-AC69-2D0337C7DAF0/
Note the Greenroof in the illustration.
German building standards are very high though, and not easy to duplicate in countries like the US and UK as the builders are not used to them.
The UK has alternative plans for highly efficient energy houses, which do not use mechanical ventilation and work to lower tolerances.
Unfortunately they use porches front and back to reach the standard, and so our already small floor areas in the house proper would be further encroached upon.
Here is the Passivhaus website:
http://www.passivhaus.eu/
More talk about Passivhaus:
http://blogsearch.google.com/?bl_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.housebuildersupdat...
And here Greenroof:
http://www.thenbs.com/topics/Environment/articles/greenRoofs.asp
Hope you find these links of interest!
Cool. Thanks!
DaveMart
Please can you post links to the following information:
"The UK has alternative plans for highly efficient energy houses, which do not use mechanical ventilation and work to lower tolerances.
Unfortunately they use porches front and back to reach the standard, and so our already small floor areas in the house proper would be further encroached upon."
I have followed the PassivHaus with great interest, but the necessity of mechanical ventilation (ie, the grid must be up) makes me very nervous. I'm in Saskatchewan at -40C with wind chill now and shelter is not optional. However, even now, the grid can certainly go down in winter storms, potentially for days at a time.
Stupidly, I did not keep the URL, however, I do have a copy of the full pdf specs which I can forward to you if you give me your e-mail - I suggest you do so in the form of somebody at internet provider dot com to avoid spam bots
If you prefer not to do this, I enclose the main link to the Passivhaus site here.
However, it is my understanding that, rather like a church, there is a tendency to schism in the Passivhaus movement, complete with cries of heresy, and some would not consider a house not using mechanical ventilation to be part of the true faith.
http://www.passivhaus.org.uk/index.jsp?id=667
You should note however that the standards called for for the UK, a mild maritime climate, will be much different to your needs in Saskatchewan, which would need something similar to Scandinavian standards - I believe they also use mechanical ventilation, although presumably if you want to be independent of the grid you could perhaps rig a custom variation.
For security, you can get a temporary e-mail here:
http://www.jetable.org/en/index
jmcheval at sympatico.ca
To be frank, this 1954 house is so leaky (ice inside) that it is going to take an awful lot of insulation, new windows (single pane glass in Saskatchewan! %%$^^%$!!! What were they thinking!), and tightening before we have to start worrying about air exchange. We've added attic insulation to the last two houses we've lived in in Canada (none before us in old houses). Canada has alot of low-hanging fruit that can be picked fairly easily in purely pragmatic terms. The problem is that ~50% of the housing in the country is rental (no reference, sorry) so there is no incentive for landlords who typically don't pay the heat to upgrade, and well, they don't. Such legal problems prevent much obvious improvements in North America. Fortunately we now own, but if we stay here for more than a year, we have a very large amount of work to improve this building.
I've e-mailed the info you want - actually, I managed to dig out the URL's for most of it, and they are in my reply to Black Dog, but I've mailed the rest.
Sounds like you have a long way to go! Single glazing in Saskatchewan, forsooth!
I can't get an e-mail through to you - you should be OK with the links I've posted here though.
I don't know if it is practical in a rented property, but a air heat pump has now been designed for Canadian conditions, and is good down to -30C, the advantage being of course that it is a lot cheaper than a ground-source pump.
http://www.gotohallowell.com/technical.html
Hallowell International: Technical Datahttp://www.thestar.com/article/302300
TheStar.com | columnisthttp://www.thestar.com/article/302301
TheStar.com | Business | Costing it out Acadia vs. gas furnace and central airs | Electricity: will it be a gas killer?
You also get air-conditioning for the summer thrown in.
In the U.S., so-called "super insulated" houses have been around for more than 20 years. The PassivHaus looks to be quite similar to those designs. As I too looked for a description of the PassivHaus, I noticed the requirement for 300mm of wall insulation and 500 mm roof insulation, triple layer windows and tightly sealed envelope. That's roughly what I did with my house, which has a double wall of 5.5 inch thickness for an R value about 38 and about R value 49 thru the roof. I used triple layer (Southwall tm) windows on three sides and double layer low-e windows on the south wall. And, I've a large solar thermal collector as well.
The ventilation can also be done passively, I think, if one uses some sort of traditional heat exchanger. If the exhaust vent is high enough, perhjaps in an attic location, the natural difference in density between warm inside and cold outside air might provide enough flow in a pinch. Some heat exchangers require electric power to operate, even if set to work without fans though. I like the idea of an earth based pre-heater for the incoming air too.
E. Swanson
I've managed to track down the URL's for detailed specs of the Passivhaus standards for Euopean warm climates - by which they mean like the UK:
http://www.passive-on.org/CD/1.%20Technical%20Guidelines/Part%202/Passiv...
Part%202%20-%20UK%20Passivhaus%20in%20Detail.pdf
http://www.passive-on.org/CD/1.%20Technical%20Guidelines/Part%203/Part%2...
Part%203.pdf
And here is some info on warmer regions like Spain, but not as detailed:
http://www.passive-on.org/en/downloads/Passive-On-Long%20Description-v1-...
Passive-On-Long%20Description-v1-0.pdf
Hope this helps!