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62 comments on A Little History of the Affordability of Domestic Energy in Great Britain
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62 comments on A Little History of the Affordability of Domestic Energy in Great Britain
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GAIA Host Collective
Bob, the contribution is much appreciated. Not quite the whole country was covered by N Sea gas however; there are still 1.5m of us, mainly in rural areas, whom the former Gas Council and subsequent private energy companies did not see fit to connect us. As a result those 1.5m households without gas are paying a lot more for their energy in the form of either electricity, heating oil or LPG.
I'm using heating oil and according to calculations I ran the other day am paying 173% more per Kw vs best quote for gas supply. With no tax on heating oil apart from 5% VAT which is applied to all UK energy bills heating oil costs have more or less tracked the crude price. To fill my oil tank cost around £250 ($360) in 2001; a fill up today is almost £1500 ($2925). If Gazprom's $250/bbl price forecast for oil within next 18 months is correct cost of a fill would hit £2500 ($5000).
From reports I've seen energy costs are already causing hardship in rural areas without gas supplies and an increasing number of thefts of heating oil are being reported, in some cases the entire tank has been emptied. It's also interesting to note that virtually all the publicity has been devoted to domestic gas prices and motor fuel prices, both of which have risen far less in percentage terms vs heating oil. Fuel protests have been more or less entirely confined to motor fuel which in UK (due to dampening effect of taxation) has risen much less in percentage terms than domestic energy supplies whether they be gas, electricity, heating oil or LPG. We might conclude that many are more concerned about their cars than keeping warm!
I appreciate your problem. I have relatives who live in the country and have oil heating. They've put in the loft insulation, cavity wall insulation and double glazing, but prices are going beyond this now. A low capital cost way out would be to switch to off-peak resistance electric heating, but it will only be a matter of time before the electricity prices zoom up.
We are getting to oil prices (and no doubt soon gas and electricity prices) where its a case of externally insulating the walls (although they're already insulated in the cavity) up to Passivhaus standards (i.e. an extra 150mm foam insulation), buying a solar water heater and digging up the lawn to put in the ground-source electric heat pump. (I think I'll wait for some more field trial results on GSHPs before I recommend one of them, though.)
BobE
This is exactly the challenge my parents have. Both live in the country (separated) with no gas. My father's place uses straw for central heating and hot water with electric emersion heater for top up in the summer and wood stoves in the downstairs rooms. My mother has oil fired heating (old non-condensing boiler) and a wood / coal stoves.
Both houses are 200+ years old with solid walls. One has high ceilings the other low, both have double glazing and loft insulation but I expect things in the loft could be improved.
The challenges are cost on the one hand, especially oil at my mother’s place and electricity for both. On the other hand energy security. What if in a few years time oil can’t be bought for love nor money or we have rolling blackouts in the heart of winter?
Solar thermal for hot water seems obvious – it replaces electricity use in the summer for my father and oil use for my mother, it both cases the economics are improving. It won’t help much in the winter though. Solid fuel (with large storage on site) guarantees a degree of space heating in both cases, so coupled with super insulation on some rooms should go a long way towards keeping warm. The challenge then becomes electricity security.
I think there’s a very good case for domestic uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) connected to a “critical” circuit in the house, lighting, the freezer maybe, central heating pumps, radio etc. The motors on refrigeration and pumping equipment pose a problem for low cost UPS solutions though. GSHPs whilst providing a good multiplier for electrical energy, do still rely on reasonably priced electricity. In the UK they have never been cost effective as the cost per kWh of electricity was always some 3 times greater than oil or gas, negating the heat pump’s improvement. In the longer term is oil and gas become unavailable but electricity is still available then heat pumps will become useful.
Looking at the longer term, to a future with significantly less heating oil, gas and electricity available, keeping our homes warm and lit will be a tremendous challenge. One sure to be met in many cases by being colder and dimmer with serious consequences for the elderly.
Chris,
I "recycled" a large commercial emergency lighting system, effectively a 5kW UPS backed up with a 10kWh set of lead acid batteries. I have wired its outputs to provide 4 "mission critical" circuits, into which appliances can be quickly plugged across - should the electricity mains supply fail. This change-over could be achieved automatically with a little extra switchgear.
Whilst normally charged from my back-up generator, it would be equally be possible to keep it trickle charged from cheap-rate "Economy 7" supply, and accounting for the charge/discharge turn-around efficiency of the batteries and inverter it would still be possible to maintain the same cost per kWh as the standard daytime rate.
I do not currently have a dual tariff meter, but might investigate the costs of having a white meter installed.
I think the key is to diversify one's domestic energy sources. Whilst the nation chose to put all it's eggs into the North Sea gas basket, the individual is still able to make the personal choices, such as diversifying into wood fired heating and solar water heating, in order to achieve a greater degree of energy security.
I suspect in the timeframe 2012-2016, the nation will have a better understanding of the meaning of energy security.
2020
That's exactly the way I'm thinking. I figured on <750w load to keep emergency stuff running so 200Ah will keep you running overnight with a small 1kW generator charging and powering in the day.
I have assessed 3 levels of response -
1. very occasional and momentary blackouts, 2-3 hours max
battery only max 4 hours TOTAL £560
inverter 1000w £80
230Ah battery £300
simple 100A switch £40
UPS £70
ADSL / 3G switchover £80
PC on local UPS, limited load from inverter for 4 hours max
2. occasional and day long blackouts
backup generator system TOTAL £900
inverter 1000w £80
230Ah battery £300
1kw petrol generator £300
simple 100A switch £40
LED backup lighting £100
ADSL / 3G switchover £80
PC on local UPS, limited load from generator daytime, battery nighttime
3. regular and long blackouts
TOTAL £1830
Whole house 10 minute UPS £200
4kw diesel generator £750
auto failover £200
inverter 3000w £200
230Ah battery £300
LED backup lighting £100
ADSL / 3G switchover £80
Loads :
min load -> 600w day 200w night
CH pump, boiler, controllers 250w
LED lighting 80w
1 LCD TV 100w
Alarm & CCTV 40w
Phones 25w
Fridge 80w
average load -> 1500w ( 8 hr load = 3000w )
CH pump, boiler, controllers 250w
Std lighting 750w
1 LCD TV 100w
PC 250w
Alarm & CCTV 40w
Phones 25w
Fridge 80w
peak load -> 3500w
CH pump, boiler, controllers 250w
Std lighting 1750w
2 LCD TV 200w
PC 250w
Alarm & CCTV 40w
Phones 25w
Microwave 800w
Fridge 80w
In each case you have to assume natural gas is still on otherwise the game changes again and you have to go to the 4th level which is almost complete off-grid.
The issue is WHEN do you install each level ? Too soon and you waste capital, too late and the installation costs escalate hugely. I'm renovating right now and will wire up for the equipment, ie 100A cable under the drive to a suitable spot for an outhouse generator etc. But apart from a UPS for PC equipment and LED torches I'm not ready for anything higher yet.
Orbit,
What you really have is a risk management problem. The worst possible outcome is that you will be unable to make any of the changes you propose. If that were to be the case, how would that impact your life?
I'm in a rural area in the US and installed a 3.6kW PV system about 9 years ago. Our underlying rationale was that despite the high cost we needed electricity available for our well pump, refrigerator and freezers. The impetus for installing the PV system was that during one long (about a week) power outage we were unable to buy additional gasoline for our back-up generator since the gas stations didn't have power either and couldn't pump gas.
Todd
Divorce will become a luxury as peak oil worsens. I already know some couples who have stayed together because housing costs were too high. As energy bills become more expensive it will be the cost of heating which keeps couples together.
I agree with the basic point on the inefficient of small family unit, in this case the separation was many years ago and family units are back up to more efficient numbers now!
The more critical aspect is the elderly - I think it will rapidly become unviable for all but the wealthiest of pensioners to live alone. I can only hope their children will welcome them into their homes (or the children return to the old family home).
BobE, thanks for the reply. I've likely a similar problem to Chris Vernon's parents as my house also has very thick granite walls, is around 200 years old and such houses are notoriously difficult to insulate effectively. Solar is not really an option as location is 57deg N which means little energy would be available from this source during the months when it's most needed.
I've already 2 wood stoves installed and currently a virtually limitless supply of free wood; that will of course change when large numbers struggle to afford energy bills thus placing more pressure on wood resources. Having said that I'm fortunate in living in an area with a large amount of fallen wood on my own land and its surroundings thus I don't need to even consider using live wood. My wife and I have lots of warm clothing which we use on mountain trips and wearing it at home in winter reduces required indoor temperature considerably.
The one item, which is rapidly becoming a luxury, is the Aga. We are exploring options to use a small plug-in electric cooker thus enabling Aga to be turned off for days at a time and, as oil prices escalate, for all the warmer months. It will be necessary to install an immersion heater as we don't have one given that the Aga is so dependable and gravity fed which means water heating is independent of electricity supply. We do, however, have a white meter and a long discontinued legacy tariff although it's more or less certain that electricity costs will rise a lot in line with other energy costs.
Hi zceb90,
I have a Heartland cooker (made by Aga here in Canada) that utilizes bottle gas. Our LPG demands are fairly modest -- about 75 litres/year to operate the dryer, BBQ and cooker -- but in an effort to trim this further we now use a portable induction hob. Going forward, the only time we envision using gas is in the event of an extended power cut.
The beauty of induction is that the operating efficiency is more than twice that of gas; it's also extremely fast, responds immediately to setting changes and offers precise temperature control (e.g., you can set it for 150C and it will automatically maintain that temperature even if you add or remove liquids). In addition, it's easy to clean.
This particular unit draws 1.6 kW and plugs into the mains. It sits on top of the cooker so that it can be used with the draft hood (http://www.datafilehost.com/download-9132d0d5.html).
Cheers,
Paul
Bob,
One thing that might be useful would be for an independent advisory company who could visit one's property and recommend various measures with an indication of likely costings and effectiveness. These people would have to have a good knowledge rather then just being an average "cowboy" builder keen to sell what they could bodge/install.
You mentioned externally insulating the walls but this is only possible if you own the space around the walls, e.g. if my wall is in my neighbour's garden then they will most likely object if I want to take 150mm+ of their space. Back to inside, what options are available that require the minimum loss of space? What can i install with a maximum of 2" of thickness? I have a very high ceiling, think church, no loft so what are my options?.....
Tony, you can't get a free survey unless you can get an installer to agree, and of course you should go to a registered one, but you can go to this web address for an energy questionnaire to check your energy use:
www.est.org.uk/check
Here is some info on insulation - the pdf downloads give good info on your options for insulating different structures:
http://www.celotex.co.uk/
Celotex Insulation | High Performance Thermal Insulation Boards
Sounds as though you could do with installing the 50mm option, and then you have plaster board on top of it - you have solid walls I take it.
Denim insulation is also worth a look:
http://www.bondedlogic.com/ultratouch.htm
Bonded Logic - Natural Cotton Fiber Insulation
Hope this helps.
Dave, many thanks for the links, I like the sound of having a denim house:-)
I am quite happy to pay and wasn't looking for a freebie but just something more clued up and impartial than a builder out of the Yellow Pages.
Apparently (I'm told) legally there is such a thing as a 'flying freehold' where your property is allowed to overhang an adjacent one. Quite how you go about this I don't know.
I have noticed a local house which has been discreetly insulated with only 25 mm external insulation. I suspect this is because it is totally surrounded by pavement and maybe something thicker might have created problems. Even so an inch of insulation will roughly halve the heat loss of a solid brick wall - 2 inches will cut it to a third. The 2006 UK Building Regs suggest a refurbishment wall U-value of 0.35 which is about 4 inches of rockwool or polystyrene.
I internally insulated my living room (built 1897) with 50mm rockwool 20 years ago. It worked a treat. The room actually became heatable. I did it in midwinter and the internal wall surface temperature rose by 2 degrees centigrade and the temperature gradient between floor and ceiling was considerably reduced - I wasn't sitting in a puddle of cold air while there was lots of hot air up at ceiling level.
Polyisocyanurate foam (Kingspan, Celotex, etc) gives a better performance (about 50%)than rockwool - I did my bedroom with it last year but it's blown with pentane so you might be a little nervous about fire risk.
Trying reading the Energy Savings Trust booklet Practical Refurbishment of Solid Walled Houses at
http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/uploads/documents/housingbuildings/C...
or have a look on their home page at
http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/
or give them a ring on 0800 512 012 (that's if you're in the UK)
BobE
Bob,
Thanks for the information, i will check up on these.
The Polyisocyanurate foam sounds good and hopefully i can stick it to the walls? I'm not worried about the fire risk since I' don't have any smokers in my buildings and wiring etc is all new:-)
Tony,
Have a look at the Celotex link above. You can screw a wooden frame to the wall, fill in between with foam and then put plasterboard over the top (that's what I've done in my bedroom). Or you can put a layer on insulation on the wall and then a thin wooden batten structure screwed through the insulation on the wall with plasterboard on top.
Or you can get foam backed plasterboard that you can glue to the wall (it helps to have flat wall surfaces). For example see Lafarge wall boards at
http://www.lafargeplasterboard.co.uk/products/prods/therm_res.htm
Bob E
Geothermal.
If you are using heating oil, take a look at "Ground Source Heat Pumps", I believe they became cheaper than heating oil a couple of years ago. You may also want to consider knocking down your 90 year old house and building a "Fertighaus", almost 40cm of insulation in each wall and they're up in 3 weeks or so.
If you tried knocking down a 90 year old house in the UK and putting up something else you would be told to take down the new structure and re-build the old one, regardless of cost. You would never get the planning permission.
Air source heat pumps are just fine in the UK's climate without going to all the expense of ground source:
http://www.neweyandeyre.co.uk/Electric-Heating.php
Hi zceb90,
"an increasing number of thefts of heating oil "
I heard about one farmer who had huge amouints of his red diesel (cheap diesel) stolen and to make it even worse the thieves just let what they couldn't take away run into the ground and so pollute the watercourse. A journalist friend of mine who has recently investigated the illegal use of red diesel tells me that thieves have tanks hidden inside ordinary looking vans.